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We’re always looking for new ways to test our limits. In my family, normal activities on the weekends are never enough. We like to chill out and read books, and we love to relax sometimes of course, but every now and then we need an extra rush of adrenaline. My children all ride skateboards at the local skating park, which might be enough to satisfy their need for thrill. I used to skateboard, but I haven’t felt like riding the grip tape now that I’m older. The thrill of skateboarding isn’t there for me any more. It’s not the same as it used to be.

I need something more to satisfy my urge to escape normality. My wife enjoys surfing, so I started going out with her. When you actually think about how far out you have to be to catch a wave, it is a pretty extreme sport